Chicago's Gravy Bread: The Unsung Hero of Italian Beef
For me, it was that seven-inch snowfall at O'Hare Airport the night before I indulged in my fourth or fifth (I've lost count) Al's Beef gravy breads - a true test of devotion. As the flakes piled up, I felt like a genuine Chicagoan, crunching through the drifts in snow boots and cursing that lingering bus delay like a perpetual Costco rotisserie chicken for 16 extra minutes. The adrenaline rush had me sprinting to Al's Beef on the North Side.
You're probably familiar with the Italian beef sandwich - it's been catapulted into mainstream popularity thanks to TV shows like "The Bear." But what about its humble, underappreciated sidekick? Gravy bread is toasted French or Italian bread drenched in the rich, savory jus of an Italian beef sandwich. To some, it's a dull, unsophisticated offering - beige and unassuming.
Unlike other Chicago culinary staples that have devoted fan sites and guides (think hot dog joints, pizza styles), gravy bread has never had its moment under the spotlight. Maybe that's exactly why I fell so hard for it.
Growing up on the outskirts of Chicago, my family moved around so much that, as an adult, this city still feels like a perpetual newcomer to me. But my third visit in five years has finally started to feel more permanent - not just another tourist layover, but something more akin to belonging. Working in food has always allowed me to explore cities one bite at a time.
My edible tour of Chicago took me through the outer fringes and inward toward the city's culinary hubs. I savored every deep dish pizza, sports pepper-studded hot dog, rib tip, tavern-style pie, or jar of spicy giardiniera that caught my eye. My goal was to learn this city by eating it - not some curated version, but an honest first draft.
That journey also included a liminal phase where I technically lived somewhere (utilities, bills, and the DMV clerk all had my address on file), yet still felt like an outsider. Eating became a way for me to bridge that gap.
And then, slowly but surely, my life started taking shape in ways both grand and subtle - most of it unfolding at the intersection of food and people. That's where you can truly feel Chicago's pulse.
One corner grocery store clerk recognized me enough to hold back a good loaf of sourdough whenever I came in; our barista learned our drinks, and we tracked each other's foster dogs like loyal godparents. My commute up Argyle Street took me through historically Vietnamese streets, where the smell of steaming congee beckoned like an old friend.
Eventually, I fell head over heels for Chicago - not just in its famous foods but also in the everyday stuff that makes this place so unique. Somewhere along the way, bus drivers offered their own brand of gospel: recommendations on what to eat during cold weather that were both no-frills and spot-on.
My life became intertwined with a driver who knew this city at stomach level - where to find a good breakfast, how to warm up without freezing, and where to grab a decent meal for almost nothing. Our conversations grew into gentle rhythms of mutual recognition - exchanging food notes about everything from the best pastries to our favorite hidden gems.
It was during one of those late-afternoon bread drops that he mentioned gravy bread - delivering it in a low, tender voice as if sharing a home remedy. "When I was young and broke," he said, "I'd get a soaker" - a dollar or maybe eighty cents for the Italian beef jus poured over bread.
What struck me most about that conversation was his refreshingly agnostic attitude toward where to find the ideal gravy bread: it wasn't always on the menu, but any decent Italian beef joint would give you one. That's not the way the culinary world operates - there are rankings and hype surrounding every dish. But for him, a soaker was just something that existed.
I promised him I'd try it out, and now I'm hooked - not because it's Instagrammable or sophisticated but precisely because it's unapologetically itself. Whether at Al's Beef, Portillo's, or some mom-and-pop shop down the street, a soaker is just what it says on the menu: bread dipped in gravy.
It may seem like an old-fashioned comfort food to some - that's exactly why I'm smitten with it. As someone who lets themselves fall for a city through its culinary joys and everyday pleasures, I'd rather be seen as unapologetically devoted than worried about being trendy or authentic.
Walking into the snow on that seven-inch morning was worth it just to get my hands on a soaker - that perfect comfort food that warms your hands and reminds you why we keep coming back for more.
For me, it was that seven-inch snowfall at O'Hare Airport the night before I indulged in my fourth or fifth (I've lost count) Al's Beef gravy breads - a true test of devotion. As the flakes piled up, I felt like a genuine Chicagoan, crunching through the drifts in snow boots and cursing that lingering bus delay like a perpetual Costco rotisserie chicken for 16 extra minutes. The adrenaline rush had me sprinting to Al's Beef on the North Side.
You're probably familiar with the Italian beef sandwich - it's been catapulted into mainstream popularity thanks to TV shows like "The Bear." But what about its humble, underappreciated sidekick? Gravy bread is toasted French or Italian bread drenched in the rich, savory jus of an Italian beef sandwich. To some, it's a dull, unsophisticated offering - beige and unassuming.
Unlike other Chicago culinary staples that have devoted fan sites and guides (think hot dog joints, pizza styles), gravy bread has never had its moment under the spotlight. Maybe that's exactly why I fell so hard for it.
Growing up on the outskirts of Chicago, my family moved around so much that, as an adult, this city still feels like a perpetual newcomer to me. But my third visit in five years has finally started to feel more permanent - not just another tourist layover, but something more akin to belonging. Working in food has always allowed me to explore cities one bite at a time.
My edible tour of Chicago took me through the outer fringes and inward toward the city's culinary hubs. I savored every deep dish pizza, sports pepper-studded hot dog, rib tip, tavern-style pie, or jar of spicy giardiniera that caught my eye. My goal was to learn this city by eating it - not some curated version, but an honest first draft.
That journey also included a liminal phase where I technically lived somewhere (utilities, bills, and the DMV clerk all had my address on file), yet still felt like an outsider. Eating became a way for me to bridge that gap.
And then, slowly but surely, my life started taking shape in ways both grand and subtle - most of it unfolding at the intersection of food and people. That's where you can truly feel Chicago's pulse.
One corner grocery store clerk recognized me enough to hold back a good loaf of sourdough whenever I came in; our barista learned our drinks, and we tracked each other's foster dogs like loyal godparents. My commute up Argyle Street took me through historically Vietnamese streets, where the smell of steaming congee beckoned like an old friend.
Eventually, I fell head over heels for Chicago - not just in its famous foods but also in the everyday stuff that makes this place so unique. Somewhere along the way, bus drivers offered their own brand of gospel: recommendations on what to eat during cold weather that were both no-frills and spot-on.
My life became intertwined with a driver who knew this city at stomach level - where to find a good breakfast, how to warm up without freezing, and where to grab a decent meal for almost nothing. Our conversations grew into gentle rhythms of mutual recognition - exchanging food notes about everything from the best pastries to our favorite hidden gems.
It was during one of those late-afternoon bread drops that he mentioned gravy bread - delivering it in a low, tender voice as if sharing a home remedy. "When I was young and broke," he said, "I'd get a soaker" - a dollar or maybe eighty cents for the Italian beef jus poured over bread.
What struck me most about that conversation was his refreshingly agnostic attitude toward where to find the ideal gravy bread: it wasn't always on the menu, but any decent Italian beef joint would give you one. That's not the way the culinary world operates - there are rankings and hype surrounding every dish. But for him, a soaker was just something that existed.
I promised him I'd try it out, and now I'm hooked - not because it's Instagrammable or sophisticated but precisely because it's unapologetically itself. Whether at Al's Beef, Portillo's, or some mom-and-pop shop down the street, a soaker is just what it says on the menu: bread dipped in gravy.
It may seem like an old-fashioned comfort food to some - that's exactly why I'm smitten with it. As someone who lets themselves fall for a city through its culinary joys and everyday pleasures, I'd rather be seen as unapologetically devoted than worried about being trendy or authentic.
Walking into the snow on that seven-inch morning was worth it just to get my hands on a soaker - that perfect comfort food that warms your hands and reminds you why we keep coming back for more.